FYI! There's been a recall on Nutro cat products - spread the word!
Out of an abundance of caution, on May 21, 2009, Nutro Products announced a voluntary recall of select varieties of NUTRO(R) NATURAL CHOICE(R) COMPLETE CARE(R) Dry Cat Foods and NUTRO(R) MAX(R) Cat Dry Foods with "Best If Used By Dates" between May 12, 2010 and August 22, 2010. This recall is due to incorrect levels of zinc and potassium in our finished product resulting from a production error by a US-based premix supplier.
Two mineral premixes were affected. One premix contained excessive levels of zinc and under-supplemented potassium. The second premix under-supplemented potassium. Both zinc and potassium are essential nutrients for cats and are added as nutritional supplements to NUTRO(R) dry cat food.
As soon as we became aware of the issue, we made the decision to hold shipments of affected dry cat product, and took immediate action to verify with our mineral premix supplier that no other products were affected. We then contacted the FDA to notify them of the voluntary recall. A full list of affected product and available alternatives for your clients is available at http://acidirect.net/c.asp?770197&3368851db1f1cb4b&1
We have completed a comprehensive audit of premixes for all NUTRO(R) products, and have confirmed that this issue only affects certain dry cat food products. No other NUTRO(R) products are affected, including dry dog food, wet dog and cat foods and dog and cat treats.
Consumers who have purchased affected product should immediately discontinue feeding the product to their cats, and switch to another product with a balanced nutritional profile. While we have received no consumer complaints related to this issue, cat owners should monitor their cat for symptoms, including a reduction in appetite or refusal of food, weight loss, vomiting or diarrhea. We have suggested that cat owners contact their veterinarian if their cat is experiencing health issues or is pregnant.
Consumers who have purchased product affected by this voluntary recall should return it to their retailer for a full refund or exchange for another NUTRO(R) dry cat food product.
Affected product was distributed to retail customers in all 50 states, as well as to customers in Canada, Mexico, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, New Zealand, and Israel. We are working with all of our distributors and retail customers, in both the US and internationally, to ensure that the recalled products are not on store shelves.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Home remedies vets love
Even if your cat is vomiting, your dog has a painful sore, or his face has swollen to the size of a small pumpkin, a trip to the animal ER may not be necessary. Here are three common problems and my favorite home remedies that vets use for pet health--plus my advice for spotting a true emergency.
To Heal a Hot Spot
If your dog is on the hairy side, you've probably had the unpleasant job of dealing with one of these painful, oozing areas of inflammation. Hot spots are usually triggered by an allergy or insect bite, but the real problem starts when your dog licks at the irritation--and licks and licks. Especially in a long-haired dog, the trapped moisture can promote an overgrowth of skin bacteria, which is incredibly irritating. Voila: You have a vicious cycle (and a miserable dog).
To fix it, you need grooming clippers to remove hair around the hot spot--just don't get too close to the skin, which could cause a razor rash. Gently clean the area with a clean, damp piece of terry cloth or a gauze pad. Then ignore your instinct to get out the antibiotic ointment--you want the area to dry out. Instead, two or three times a day, apply a half-and-half mixture of water and apple cider vinegar, or--even better--use Domeboro's solution, an astringent sold OTC at pharmacies. (It comes in packets; mix according to directions on the label.) Soak a washcloth in either solution, or use a clean spray bottle and squirt it on. Your dog will need to wear an Elizabethan collar (aka "funnel hat") for a little while so he can't lick and start the cycle over again; these are available at pet supply stores or online. If you caught the hot spot early, this approach should do the trick.
Head to the Vet If: Things don't improve in a day or two. Your dog may need oral antibiotics and steroids.
To Soothe an Upset Stomach
Vomiting is one of the most common reasons owners bring a pet to the ER. But strangely, when I question those owners, I'm often told that after the animal threw up, they promptly fed him again. Don't do that! In cases of gastroenteritis (inflammation of the intestines or stomach, causing vomiting and diarrhea), it's best not to give any food (just water) for at least 12 hours, assuming your pet isn't diabetic. You can give him a little Pepcid AC. The right dose is important for pet health; click here for a guide. After the fast, give him a bit of bland food, such as boiled chicken (no fat or skin) for a dog or canned tuna packed in water for a cat.
Head to the Vet If: Your pet kept vomiting during the fast, the small meal restarts the upset, he's not interested in food at all, or he becomes lethargic.
To Stop an Allergic Reaction
It would be funny if it weren't scary: You let your dog out into the yard and when he comes back, he's puffy faced and swollen. Dogs can have allergic reactions to bug bites and some outdoor plants or chemically treated mulch--as well as carpet cleaner or a vaccine given earlier that day. A little human-style antihistamine, such as Benadryl, can be a good home remedy to help your dog--but steer clear of multisymptom formulas because you don't want a decongestant or other extra ingredients. (Click here for the right dose. ) Then give him a bath, using a mild dish detergent, such as Dawn. The reason: He may be reacting to an irritant on his skin, and until you get it off, he'll keep getting hives.
Head to the Vet If: The swelling doesn't improve within a few hours or gets worse (your Lab or beagle is beginning to look like a shar-pei). Also, if your pet starts having difficulty breathing, it's time for that emergency room visit after all. (Very rarely, cats have allergic reactions, too. But they don't get puffy--they just keel over. If your cat starts vomiting and panting within a couple of hours after getting a vaccine, you need to get to the vet fast.)
Copyright Prevention Magazine 2009, written by Dr. Justine Lee
To Heal a Hot Spot
If your dog is on the hairy side, you've probably had the unpleasant job of dealing with one of these painful, oozing areas of inflammation. Hot spots are usually triggered by an allergy or insect bite, but the real problem starts when your dog licks at the irritation--and licks and licks. Especially in a long-haired dog, the trapped moisture can promote an overgrowth of skin bacteria, which is incredibly irritating. Voila: You have a vicious cycle (and a miserable dog).
To fix it, you need grooming clippers to remove hair around the hot spot--just don't get too close to the skin, which could cause a razor rash. Gently clean the area with a clean, damp piece of terry cloth or a gauze pad. Then ignore your instinct to get out the antibiotic ointment--you want the area to dry out. Instead, two or three times a day, apply a half-and-half mixture of water and apple cider vinegar, or--even better--use Domeboro's solution, an astringent sold OTC at pharmacies. (It comes in packets; mix according to directions on the label.) Soak a washcloth in either solution, or use a clean spray bottle and squirt it on. Your dog will need to wear an Elizabethan collar (aka "funnel hat") for a little while so he can't lick and start the cycle over again; these are available at pet supply stores or online. If you caught the hot spot early, this approach should do the trick.
Head to the Vet If: Things don't improve in a day or two. Your dog may need oral antibiotics and steroids.
To Soothe an Upset Stomach
Vomiting is one of the most common reasons owners bring a pet to the ER. But strangely, when I question those owners, I'm often told that after the animal threw up, they promptly fed him again. Don't do that! In cases of gastroenteritis (inflammation of the intestines or stomach, causing vomiting and diarrhea), it's best not to give any food (just water) for at least 12 hours, assuming your pet isn't diabetic. You can give him a little Pepcid AC. The right dose is important for pet health; click here for a guide. After the fast, give him a bit of bland food, such as boiled chicken (no fat or skin) for a dog or canned tuna packed in water for a cat.
Head to the Vet If: Your pet kept vomiting during the fast, the small meal restarts the upset, he's not interested in food at all, or he becomes lethargic.
To Stop an Allergic Reaction
It would be funny if it weren't scary: You let your dog out into the yard and when he comes back, he's puffy faced and swollen. Dogs can have allergic reactions to bug bites and some outdoor plants or chemically treated mulch--as well as carpet cleaner or a vaccine given earlier that day. A little human-style antihistamine, such as Benadryl, can be a good home remedy to help your dog--but steer clear of multisymptom formulas because you don't want a decongestant or other extra ingredients. (Click here for the right dose. ) Then give him a bath, using a mild dish detergent, such as Dawn. The reason: He may be reacting to an irritant on his skin, and until you get it off, he'll keep getting hives.
Head to the Vet If: The swelling doesn't improve within a few hours or gets worse (your Lab or beagle is beginning to look like a shar-pei). Also, if your pet starts having difficulty breathing, it's time for that emergency room visit after all. (Very rarely, cats have allergic reactions, too. But they don't get puffy--they just keel over. If your cat starts vomiting and panting within a couple of hours after getting a vaccine, you need to get to the vet fast.)
Copyright Prevention Magazine 2009, written by Dr. Justine Lee
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
How often to vaccinate your pet
Take note: We vets recently updated our recommendations for keeping your furry friend healthy. While all animals should get an annual exam, yours may need vaccinations only every 3 years. Here, a look at the shots every pet needs triennially--and the ones he can do without.
The Protection Pets Do Need
Cats need a series of FVRCP shots, which protect against three diseases. So what do those letters stand for? "FVR" represents highly contagious feline viral rhinotracheitis, an upper respiratory infection caused by a feline herpes-virus. The C stands for calicivirus, which can cause severe upper respiratory infections. Finally, the P stands for panleukopenia, an often deadly disease characterized by vomiting, diarrhea, and a low white blood cell count. Dogs must receive the DHPP vaccine, which will protect against distemper, an often fatal viral disease that causes respiratory, gastrointestinal, and neurologic problems; hepatitis, a virus that can wreak havoc on your pet's liver; parainfluenza, a contagious illness that leads to respiratory infections; and parvovirus, which causes severe gastrointestinal problems, fever, and (in more serious cases) death. A rabies vaccination is also a must, for dogs and cats!
Consider with Caveats
Some circumstances may call for added protection. I suggest getting the short-acting kennel cough vaccine if you're boarding your dog frequently, taking him to doggie day care, or traveling to dog shows. Otherwise, skip it. Consider the corona-virus vaccine for your dog and feline leukemia shot for your cat only if you're exposing your pets to other animals.
Shots Best Skipped
Certain vaccines have always been controversial; here's why I generally steer owners away. I don't vaccinate against Giardia (a bug that your pet may pick up by drinking lake water) or FIP (a feline disease that can lead to inflammation of the tissues around the abdomen, kidney, and brain). Both are rare, and the latter lacks a reliable blood test; if you vaccinate your cat, she will test positive at future blood screenings. As for Lyme disease, top experts in the field don't typically recommend this vaccine for a dog unless he has high exposure. They prefer preventatives instead, like Frontline or Preventic collars. Cats can get Lyme but generally don't because they clean themselves, removing ticks before they've had a chance to cause infections. For cats, I'm not a big fan of the feline leukemia vaccine. FeLV is not 100% effective. It only reduces the severity of this deadly disease, which means your cat can still contract it! I use it only when a cat is high risk (he is exposed to other cats or immunosuppressed from a serious disease like cancer). When it comes to vaccinating your pets, remember: Sometimes less is more.
Your pet's age-by-age vaccine schedule
Young Adult Animals: Once your pet has finished the pediatric series--which is given between 6 weeks and 4 months of age--he needs to be vaccinated annually for the next 3 years. Adults (3+ Years of Age): By this stage, your pet's immune system is usually well protected, so you can vaccinate once every 3 years. If your pet is often exposed to other animals, ask your vet for a blood test to check whether your animal's antibody response is up to par. Geriatric (7+ Years for Dogs; 10+ Years for Cats): Provided that you went through the above-mentioned protocol, your pet's immune system should be in great shape. Continue getting him rabies shots and either FVRCP or DHPP vaccines every 3 years. Instead of getting unnecessary vaccines (including those mentioned at left), spend on blood work--especially because your pet could develop metabolic problems (including liver or kidney issues) during this time.
Biography: Justine Lee DVM, DACVECC, is a veterinary emergency critical-specialist and associate director veterinary services Pet Poison Helpline. She is the author of the book It's a Cat's World... You Just Live In It.
Prevention 2009 copyright.
The Protection Pets Do Need
Cats need a series of FVRCP shots, which protect against three diseases. So what do those letters stand for? "FVR" represents highly contagious feline viral rhinotracheitis, an upper respiratory infection caused by a feline herpes-virus. The C stands for calicivirus, which can cause severe upper respiratory infections. Finally, the P stands for panleukopenia, an often deadly disease characterized by vomiting, diarrhea, and a low white blood cell count. Dogs must receive the DHPP vaccine, which will protect against distemper, an often fatal viral disease that causes respiratory, gastrointestinal, and neurologic problems; hepatitis, a virus that can wreak havoc on your pet's liver; parainfluenza, a contagious illness that leads to respiratory infections; and parvovirus, which causes severe gastrointestinal problems, fever, and (in more serious cases) death. A rabies vaccination is also a must, for dogs and cats!
Consider with Caveats
Some circumstances may call for added protection. I suggest getting the short-acting kennel cough vaccine if you're boarding your dog frequently, taking him to doggie day care, or traveling to dog shows. Otherwise, skip it. Consider the corona-virus vaccine for your dog and feline leukemia shot for your cat only if you're exposing your pets to other animals.
Shots Best Skipped
Certain vaccines have always been controversial; here's why I generally steer owners away. I don't vaccinate against Giardia (a bug that your pet may pick up by drinking lake water) or FIP (a feline disease that can lead to inflammation of the tissues around the abdomen, kidney, and brain). Both are rare, and the latter lacks a reliable blood test; if you vaccinate your cat, she will test positive at future blood screenings. As for Lyme disease, top experts in the field don't typically recommend this vaccine for a dog unless he has high exposure. They prefer preventatives instead, like Frontline or Preventic collars. Cats can get Lyme but generally don't because they clean themselves, removing ticks before they've had a chance to cause infections. For cats, I'm not a big fan of the feline leukemia vaccine. FeLV is not 100% effective. It only reduces the severity of this deadly disease, which means your cat can still contract it! I use it only when a cat is high risk (he is exposed to other cats or immunosuppressed from a serious disease like cancer). When it comes to vaccinating your pets, remember: Sometimes less is more.
Your pet's age-by-age vaccine schedule
Young Adult Animals: Once your pet has finished the pediatric series--which is given between 6 weeks and 4 months of age--he needs to be vaccinated annually for the next 3 years. Adults (3+ Years of Age): By this stage, your pet's immune system is usually well protected, so you can vaccinate once every 3 years. If your pet is often exposed to other animals, ask your vet for a blood test to check whether your animal's antibody response is up to par. Geriatric (7+ Years for Dogs; 10+ Years for Cats): Provided that you went through the above-mentioned protocol, your pet's immune system should be in great shape. Continue getting him rabies shots and either FVRCP or DHPP vaccines every 3 years. Instead of getting unnecessary vaccines (including those mentioned at left), spend on blood work--especially because your pet could develop metabolic problems (including liver or kidney issues) during this time.
Biography: Justine Lee DVM, DACVECC, is a veterinary emergency critical-specialist and associate director veterinary services Pet Poison Helpline. She is the author of the book It's a Cat's World... You Just Live In It.
Prevention 2009 copyright.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Should I get pet insurance for my cat?
Veterinary pet insurance has become more popular in the past decade, and has been available in the United States for almost 30 years. Examples include Banfield and VPI Veterinary Pet Insurance Company (VPI Pet Insurance at vets.petinsurance.com or 866-VET-4VPI). Recently, veterinary pet insurance has become progressively more accepted. However, less than 1% of the pet owning population has it. Considering 30-40% of Americans lack their own health insurance, this isn’t all that surprising.
That said, pet insurance really isn’t that expensive. On average, it costs approximately $1 a day and is accepted at almost all veterinary hospitals. If you have multiple pets, there is typically a 5-10% discount for each pet. Since veterinary pet insurances are third party companies, owners have to pay the veterinarian up front and seek reimbursement by the insurance company at a later date. While some veterinarians do recommend pet insurance, it is important to carefully review your policy. Some companies will only cover a portion of routine vaccines and elective surgery, but will not cover Fifi for congenital or inherited diseases. In other words, if you have a Maine Coon cat that is predisposed to heart problems (like hypertrophic cardiomyopathy) or a Persian that is predisposed to kidney problems (like polycystic kidneys), none of these medical problems will be covered. However, pet insurance becomes helpful if Fifi swallows an entire wad of tinsel or dental floss and needs stomach and intestinal surgery or gets hit by a car. While pet insurance may only cover 10-50% of the costs, it may pay off if Fifi is more accident prone. Or, it may be cheaper for you to just build a fence with bumpers. And give Fifi a helmet. And keep her indoors. Being that veterinary medicine can be expensive as the quality of care improves, pet insurance may be a good option for all you pet lovers out there!
That said, pet insurance really isn’t that expensive. On average, it costs approximately $1 a day and is accepted at almost all veterinary hospitals. If you have multiple pets, there is typically a 5-10% discount for each pet. Since veterinary pet insurances are third party companies, owners have to pay the veterinarian up front and seek reimbursement by the insurance company at a later date. While some veterinarians do recommend pet insurance, it is important to carefully review your policy. Some companies will only cover a portion of routine vaccines and elective surgery, but will not cover Fifi for congenital or inherited diseases. In other words, if you have a Maine Coon cat that is predisposed to heart problems (like hypertrophic cardiomyopathy) or a Persian that is predisposed to kidney problems (like polycystic kidneys), none of these medical problems will be covered. However, pet insurance becomes helpful if Fifi swallows an entire wad of tinsel or dental floss and needs stomach and intestinal surgery or gets hit by a car. While pet insurance may only cover 10-50% of the costs, it may pay off if Fifi is more accident prone. Or, it may be cheaper for you to just build a fence with bumpers. And give Fifi a helmet. And keep her indoors. Being that veterinary medicine can be expensive as the quality of care improves, pet insurance may be a good option for all you pet lovers out there!
Friday, May 15, 2009
6 vet products veterinarians love!
While our economy may be down, not so when it comes to our four-legged friends! Last year, pet owners spent over $43.4 billion – with most of that squandered on useless gadgets or extravagant pet products. When it comes to pampering our pets, learn how to discriminate between which products are worth spontaneously splurging on (studded-collar, anyone?), which are worth skipping (magnetic beds), and which ones are essential for the health of your pet. These are five pet products that you shouldn’t skimp on!
Pill pockets
If your dog or cat are on daily medications, make life easier for all involved – buy them some pill pockets. These easy-to-mold soft treats have a “built-in pocket,” allowing you to stuff a pill inside without your pet ever noticing. Once you place the pill inside, simply pinch the pocket closed – hiding that gross medicine taste from your pet. These delectable treats are irresistible – and tried and tested by my own three pets. Before you know it, your pet will be begging for his meds. If you have the rare dog or cat that’s smart enough to pick the pill out of the pill pocket, splurge on a compounding pharmacy that can convert the medication into a lovely fish- or liver-flavored liquid instead – allowing you to feed his medications with his food instead.
Promise or Halti collar
This unique collar is a must when it comes to training a new puppy, and is the #1 tooted tool recommended by veterinary behaviorists. These collars come with different names: the Gentle Leader, the Promise collar, or the Halti… and each one is a vet’s (and pet owner’s) life-saver. While you may take it for granted that it’s “easy” to know how to properly walk down the street with your dog, it’s harder than it looks – and this collar will show you how. This unique two-strap collar is designed to be a modified leash that prevents your dog from pulling and makes him submissive to your every command. While this collar looks like a muzzle, it’s not – rather, it’s designed to work by two mechanisms: one strap (loop) goes over the muzzle, while the second strap goes around the back of the neck. It’s the muzzle strap that makes this collar effective – when your dog pulls on the leash, this loop tightens down and applies tension to the muzzle of your dog – mimicking what happens when a dominant alpha wolf tries to exert his or her dominance of a submissive dog (biting down on the muzzle) - causing your dog to back off. This shows your dog that you’re the boss in a language that he’ll understand. Meantime, the other strap helps prevent your dog from pulling against the leash – it mimics a mother carrying her puppy by the back of the neck, causing the puppy to instinctively relax. Granted, it’ll take some time getting your dog used to this muzzle strap collar (he’ll rub his face on the carpet, trying to initially get this off), but it’s worth it – your dog will quickly learn that it’s associated with walk time, and will learn to stop pulling on the leash, making you look less like an out-of-control owner!
Kitty water fountains
While this seems like a pet product that only crazy cat owners have, it’s not… and it’s worth splurging on. Being that cats are creatures of curiosity, they enjoy having a source of “fun” water – in other words, water they can splash and play with. That’s likely why you notice your cat hanging around the bathroom when you get out of the shower – a fun, refreshing, new water source to lap up! These plug-in kitty water fountains are reasonably priced ($50), and provide fresh, running water while lulling you into relaxation also. While this may not be on your priority list – it should be – especially if you have an older cat that has diabetes, kidney failure, bladder problems, or hyperthyroidism, where a cat’s water balance and hydration status are finely balanced. Veterinarians have found that cats actually drink more if they have a kitty water fountain in their house, which then keeps them hydrated, flushing out their kidneys and bladder even better.
The Kong
Nothing’s worse than leaving your dog alone all day for 8 to 10 hour stretches – after all, what’s she to do? Invest in a Kong toy as a great, cheap, inexpensive way of “mentally stimulating” your dog. By stuffing the middle of a Kong treat (like their “Stuff-A-Ball”) with peanut butter, kibble, frozen chicken broth, or odd-shaped biscuits and treats, it gives your dog a toy to play around with while you’re gone… providing some much needed environmental enrichment while you’re hard at work trying to pay off all those Kong treats. Don’t forget to cut back on dinner though, since you’re providing a lot of calories as a snack in the Kong toy. Better yet, try the Kong-on-a-rope for a quick 15-minute exercise session in the dog park when you get home from work – this throw toy will get your dog’s heart racing and pumping for some calorie-shedding exercise.
A book
Just because your pets can’t read doesn’t mean their two-legged counter part shouldn’t. When it comes to pet education and general health, there’s a lot of good and bad information on the Internet. Find a reputable book that provides important information about overall health, vaccination schedules, common diseases, household toxins to avoid, and other aspects of pet husbandry. If you’re a cat owner, the Cornell Book of Cats is a must. If you’re looking for something a bit lighter, check out It’s a Cat’s World… You Just Live in It. When in doubt, make sure it’s written by a veterinarian if it’s about medical diseases, and by an animal trainer or behaviorist if it’s about obedience or behavioral issues. There’s a lot of variability in the quality and accuracy of the information you’ll find out there, and you want to pick the right information source.
Another kitty litter box
While this pet product doesn’t seem quite as luxurious and fun for your pampered cat, it’s worth listing in the top 5. The #1 mistake I see pet owners making is not having enough litter boxes in the household – so when in doubt, go splurge on another one. If you have multiple cats, stick to the n+1 litter box rule, and scoop at least daily. Your cat will think he died and went to a (cleaner) heaven. Not only does your cat love you more for keeping a fastidious lifestyle that he prefers, but his kidneys, bladder, and lower urinary tract will thank you for it too. A lot of underlying behavioral and medical problems occur because of poor litter box husbandry, so splurge.
BOX:
• When in doubt, ask your vet, animal behaviorist, or pet trainer for some pet-approved toys. They’ll help you pick safe, indestructible ones for your pet.
• Keep in mind that not all pet products are safe – some treats can break off and lodge in your pet’s esophagus, stomach or intestines, while others can cause gastroenteritis (i.e., vomiting or diarrhea from an irritated intestine) from being too rich, too fatty, or too salty. Other toys may have dangerous string or parts that could get stuck in the intestines, requiring an expensive surgery to fix it.
• The best pet products are those that keep your pet’s quality of life high: medically healthy, mentally stimulated, and physically exercised.
Biography:
Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC is a veterinary emergency critical-care specialist and the associate director of veterinary services at Pet Poison Helpline. She is the author of It’s a Cat’s World…You Just Live in It and It’s a Dog’s Life… but It’s Your Carpet.
Pill pockets
If your dog or cat are on daily medications, make life easier for all involved – buy them some pill pockets. These easy-to-mold soft treats have a “built-in pocket,” allowing you to stuff a pill inside without your pet ever noticing. Once you place the pill inside, simply pinch the pocket closed – hiding that gross medicine taste from your pet. These delectable treats are irresistible – and tried and tested by my own three pets. Before you know it, your pet will be begging for his meds. If you have the rare dog or cat that’s smart enough to pick the pill out of the pill pocket, splurge on a compounding pharmacy that can convert the medication into a lovely fish- or liver-flavored liquid instead – allowing you to feed his medications with his food instead.
Promise or Halti collar
This unique collar is a must when it comes to training a new puppy, and is the #1 tooted tool recommended by veterinary behaviorists. These collars come with different names: the Gentle Leader, the Promise collar, or the Halti… and each one is a vet’s (and pet owner’s) life-saver. While you may take it for granted that it’s “easy” to know how to properly walk down the street with your dog, it’s harder than it looks – and this collar will show you how. This unique two-strap collar is designed to be a modified leash that prevents your dog from pulling and makes him submissive to your every command. While this collar looks like a muzzle, it’s not – rather, it’s designed to work by two mechanisms: one strap (loop) goes over the muzzle, while the second strap goes around the back of the neck. It’s the muzzle strap that makes this collar effective – when your dog pulls on the leash, this loop tightens down and applies tension to the muzzle of your dog – mimicking what happens when a dominant alpha wolf tries to exert his or her dominance of a submissive dog (biting down on the muzzle) - causing your dog to back off. This shows your dog that you’re the boss in a language that he’ll understand. Meantime, the other strap helps prevent your dog from pulling against the leash – it mimics a mother carrying her puppy by the back of the neck, causing the puppy to instinctively relax. Granted, it’ll take some time getting your dog used to this muzzle strap collar (he’ll rub his face on the carpet, trying to initially get this off), but it’s worth it – your dog will quickly learn that it’s associated with walk time, and will learn to stop pulling on the leash, making you look less like an out-of-control owner!
Kitty water fountains
While this seems like a pet product that only crazy cat owners have, it’s not… and it’s worth splurging on. Being that cats are creatures of curiosity, they enjoy having a source of “fun” water – in other words, water they can splash and play with. That’s likely why you notice your cat hanging around the bathroom when you get out of the shower – a fun, refreshing, new water source to lap up! These plug-in kitty water fountains are reasonably priced ($50), and provide fresh, running water while lulling you into relaxation also. While this may not be on your priority list – it should be – especially if you have an older cat that has diabetes, kidney failure, bladder problems, or hyperthyroidism, where a cat’s water balance and hydration status are finely balanced. Veterinarians have found that cats actually drink more if they have a kitty water fountain in their house, which then keeps them hydrated, flushing out their kidneys and bladder even better.
The Kong
Nothing’s worse than leaving your dog alone all day for 8 to 10 hour stretches – after all, what’s she to do? Invest in a Kong toy as a great, cheap, inexpensive way of “mentally stimulating” your dog. By stuffing the middle of a Kong treat (like their “Stuff-A-Ball”) with peanut butter, kibble, frozen chicken broth, or odd-shaped biscuits and treats, it gives your dog a toy to play around with while you’re gone… providing some much needed environmental enrichment while you’re hard at work trying to pay off all those Kong treats. Don’t forget to cut back on dinner though, since you’re providing a lot of calories as a snack in the Kong toy. Better yet, try the Kong-on-a-rope for a quick 15-minute exercise session in the dog park when you get home from work – this throw toy will get your dog’s heart racing and pumping for some calorie-shedding exercise.
A book
Just because your pets can’t read doesn’t mean their two-legged counter part shouldn’t. When it comes to pet education and general health, there’s a lot of good and bad information on the Internet. Find a reputable book that provides important information about overall health, vaccination schedules, common diseases, household toxins to avoid, and other aspects of pet husbandry. If you’re a cat owner, the Cornell Book of Cats is a must. If you’re looking for something a bit lighter, check out It’s a Cat’s World… You Just Live in It. When in doubt, make sure it’s written by a veterinarian if it’s about medical diseases, and by an animal trainer or behaviorist if it’s about obedience or behavioral issues. There’s a lot of variability in the quality and accuracy of the information you’ll find out there, and you want to pick the right information source.
Another kitty litter box
While this pet product doesn’t seem quite as luxurious and fun for your pampered cat, it’s worth listing in the top 5. The #1 mistake I see pet owners making is not having enough litter boxes in the household – so when in doubt, go splurge on another one. If you have multiple cats, stick to the n+1 litter box rule, and scoop at least daily. Your cat will think he died and went to a (cleaner) heaven. Not only does your cat love you more for keeping a fastidious lifestyle that he prefers, but his kidneys, bladder, and lower urinary tract will thank you for it too. A lot of underlying behavioral and medical problems occur because of poor litter box husbandry, so splurge.
BOX:
• When in doubt, ask your vet, animal behaviorist, or pet trainer for some pet-approved toys. They’ll help you pick safe, indestructible ones for your pet.
• Keep in mind that not all pet products are safe – some treats can break off and lodge in your pet’s esophagus, stomach or intestines, while others can cause gastroenteritis (i.e., vomiting or diarrhea from an irritated intestine) from being too rich, too fatty, or too salty. Other toys may have dangerous string or parts that could get stuck in the intestines, requiring an expensive surgery to fix it.
• The best pet products are those that keep your pet’s quality of life high: medically healthy, mentally stimulated, and physically exercised.
Biography:
Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC is a veterinary emergency critical-care specialist and the associate director of veterinary services at Pet Poison Helpline. She is the author of It’s a Cat’s World…You Just Live in It and It’s a Dog’s Life… but It’s Your Carpet.
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Happy Dog Spot.Com - but good to know for cat lovers too!
Thanks to Diana at Happy Dog Spot.com for writing about Dog CPR! Check out the link!
Dog CPR:Learn how to ImproveYour Dog's Chances of Survival
For this article on dog CPR, I had the pleasure of interviewing Dr. Justine Lee, author of the book It’s a Dog’s Life… but it’s Your Carpet.
Dr. Lee is a board-certified emergency critical care veterinary specialist and is currently the Associate Director of Veterinary Services for Pet Poison Helpline.
| For the previous five years, Dr. Lee was on faculty as an Assistant Clinical Professor at the University of Minnesota College of Veterinary Medicine. She is currently one of approximately 240 board-certified veterinary specialists world wide in emergency and critical care, and is a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care (DACVECC). The most important piece of advice that Dr. Lee gives regarding dog CPR is to prevent an emergency from happening in the first place by becoming an astute pet parent. By understanding how to monitor and interpret your dog’s physical and emotional signs, you can often head off a potential tragedy that requires performing dog CPR (now referred to as CPCR (Cardiac Pulmonary Cerebral Resuscitation). |
When a human requires CPR, it is often due to suffering a heart attack (ventricular fibrillation). This is not the case with animals. Their hearts often time just stop (asystole), usually due to a highly progressed disease such as cancer that has spread throughout the body, end-stage organ disease (like kidney failure or heart failure), or a severe case of internal bleeding. For this reason, it is extremely important to be vigilant about monitoring your pet’s physical symptoms and his behavior for clues to his health, so that you can address issues before it becomes too late.
That said, it is of course any loving pet parents’ natural inclination to want to try to save their dog, and there are instances – such as with a choking dog – that the prognosis is the best, where dog CPR should be attempted.
If you do find yourself in the unfortunate position of having to perform dog CPR, Dr. Lee advises you follow these steps:
Know the location of your nearest emergency clinic, and have its number programmed into your cell phone.
The best chance for your pet’s survival will be to get him immediately to your nearest veterinary hospital for professional treatment. When an emergency is underway is not the time to be frantically searching for your nearest clinic. You should have this information at the ready so that you don’t waste even one second searching for it. More importantly, call to warn them that you are coming, so that the doctors and nurses are prepared to receive you and your pet at the door. I actually tore the page out of my telephone book that lists the nearest animal emergency clinic. Not only does it contain the phone number and address, but a convenient map as well.
Be prepared with the proper equipment.
Always have a leash and blanket handy in your home as well as your car. If you have a large dog, you should also keep a plastic sled in your trunk so that you can lift and transport the dog with as little jostling as possible. In addition, it’s worth purchasing a cloth muzzle in cases of emergency. Even loving dogs will bite from pain, and it’s safest to muzzle before lifting an injured dog.
When performing dog CPR, Dr. Lee advises that you always follow the “ABC”s
(Airway, Breathing, Circulation):
Airway
The first thing you will want to do is determine whether anything is obstructing your dog’s breathing passage. Dogs can choke on a variety of things, ranging from toys to foreign objects to their own vomit. One of the main reasons for a choking dog is that he has gotten a hold of a toy that is inappropriately sized for him. Dr. Lee strongly advises keeping dogs away from undersized toys such as super balls (those hard rubber balls that bounce very high). They can easily become lodged and obstruct the dog’s upper airway. See our article on how to help a choking dog for more on this subject, such as attempting to clear the airway and performing the Heimlich maneuver.
Breathing
If your dog is not choking, or once you have cleared the airway, check to see if he is breathing. If he is not breathing, you will need to perform rescue breaths, which is the dog version of human mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. With dog rescue breaths, however, you blow directly into the dog’s nostrils, rather than his mouth. In order to make sure that no air leaks out, completely cover your dog’s mouth by wrapping his lips all the way around to create a seal (see photo). 
You can then put your hand over the dog’s muzzle and cover your lips directly over the nostrils (creating a seal), blowing directly into his nostrils.
Give four to five rapid rescue breaths into the dog’s nostrils, then check to see if he is breathing (his chest will rise on its own). If the dog does not begin to breathe on his own, continue performing 20 rescue breaths per minute (preferably while someone else is driving you to the nearest veterinary emergency hospital). Bear in mind, however, that if you (or your veterinarian) cannot revive your dog within two minutes, he will have suffered brain damage from oxygen deprivation.
Circulation
To determine your dog’s circulation, you will need to check for a heartbeat. An efficient way to know if your dog’s heart is beating is to put your hands under the dog’s left or right front leg at the point where the elbow hits the chest and feel for the heart beat (see photo).
Alternately, you can feel for a femoral pulse on the inside of your dog’s thigh – this takes a lot of practice and is often hard to find with a lot of fur or fat! It is a good idea to practice checking your dog’s heartbeat and pulse in advance, so you are familiar with this practice in case of an emergency.
To see how well your dog’s circulation is, you can also check the color of his gums. To do this, lift up his gum and check the color (see photo). 
Use your finger to lightly press on the gum to blanch the color out of the gum. If the color does not return to pink in less than two seconds, something is wrong! If the dog’s gums are pink, it means that his heart is beating and providing circulation. If the gums are very pale, it may you’re your dog is anemic.
If there is no heartbeat or pulse, you will need to apply chest compressions as part of your dog CPR.
Where you will apply CPR chest compressions will depend upon the size of your dog. For dogs less than 35 pounds (15 kgs), perform the chest compressions directly over the heart, with your hands folded together (see photo). Make sure that your arms are extended and your elbows locked while you compress the chest ½ -- 1 inch with each compression.
For dogs that weigh more than 35 pounds (15 kgs), perform the compressions directly over the last rib, with your two hands folded together (see photo). 
Again, keep your arms extended and your elbows locked, compressing the chest approximately ¼ of the overall width, which may be 1 – 2 inches with each compression. You should be performing approximately 60-100 compressions per minute (more frequent the smaller your dog).
If you are performing dog CPR by yourself, you will need to alternate rescue breaths and chest compressions at the following rate:
- Small Dogs: 20 breaths followed by 100 compressions
- Medium Dogs: 20 breaths followed by 80 compressions
- Large Dogs: 20 breaths followed by 60 compressions
Some dogs that stop breathing might also have fluid coming out of the nose. This is often times a sign of congestive heart failure or severe lung disease, and unfortunately it is highly unlikely that even CPR performed by a professional will save him.
Again, vigilance and astute monitoring of your dog’s health are essential to preventing a dog CPR emergency.
Some warning signs that require medical attention:
- Restlessness and panting at night (your dog should be peacefully sleeping)
- Coughing
- Lethargy or malaise
- Unproductive retching (note that this can be an urgent sign of stomach bloat, requiring immediate medical and surgical attention)
- Weakness
- Collapse
- Pale gums
- Strange howling
- Dilated pupils
- Loss of appetite (if a Labrador stops eating, for example, he should be rushed immediately to your veterinarian or the nearest emergency veterinary hospital)
Unlike people, dogs are very stoic, and often don’t let on that they have a health problem until it is very far along – perhaps even too late. For this reason, Dr. Lee stresses that it is up to us as responsible pet parents to watch for any changes in our dog’s physical or emotional condition. The key is to be astute so that you are never in a position where you have to perform dog CPR.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
"Did you know?" by Dr. Catherine Adams at Pet Poison Helpline
DID YOU KNOW……?
As colorful and welcome as they are, many spring blooms and bulbs cause problems for curious pets who investigate them. Clinical signs can be separated into five main categories.
Contact dermatitis: Hyacinth, narcissus (daffodils, jonquils), and tulips are all associated with dermatitis, either from contact allergens or insoluble calcium oxalate crystals found in the sap.
Mild to severe GI irritation: Crocus, snowdrop, hyacinth, grape hyacinth, tulips, cyclamen, gladiolus, iris, narcissus, and jack-in-the-pulpit can all be irritating to the GIT. The severity of signs depends on the amount ingested, condition of the plant (many plants are more palatable when stressed from frost or drought), soil condition, and climate.
Severe multisystemic signs: Colchicum (autumn crocus) or gloriosa superb (glory lily) ingestion can result in hypersalivation, vomiting, hemorrhagic diarrhea, severe abdominal pain, depression, weakness, collapse, and death. Signs may not occur for 24-72 hours after ingestion due to the slow absorption of colchicine. Do not confuse Colchicum (autumn crocus) with Crocus (spring crocus). If there is any doubt, treat as colchicum toxicity until accurate plant identification is confirmed.
Renal toxicity: Renal failure in cats from all parts of most lily species has been documented for several years. What began over 10 years ago as poisonings associated with Easter Lilies has spread to include just about every species of lily. This does not include the “peace lily” which is truthfully not a lily at all.
Cardiotoxic problems: Ingestion of all parts of the lily-of-the-valley has been associated with vomiting, hemorrhagic diarrhea, abdominal pain, bradycardia, heart block, asystole, seizures, coma, and death. The rhizome has the highest concentration of cardiotoxins and may result in the most severe signs.
And remember!! -------Bone and blood meal fertilizers, old moldy fertilizer, or carbamate/organophosphate products may be consumed along with plant parts. Even the water that the cut daffodils stood in can be harmful if enough is ingested.
As colorful and welcome as they are, many spring blooms and bulbs cause problems for curious pets who investigate them. Clinical signs can be separated into five main categories.
Contact dermatitis: Hyacinth, narcissus (daffodils, jonquils), and tulips are all associated with dermatitis, either from contact allergens or insoluble calcium oxalate crystals found in the sap.
Mild to severe GI irritation: Crocus, snowdrop, hyacinth, grape hyacinth, tulips, cyclamen, gladiolus, iris, narcissus, and jack-in-the-pulpit can all be irritating to the GIT. The severity of signs depends on the amount ingested, condition of the plant (many plants are more palatable when stressed from frost or drought), soil condition, and climate.
Severe multisystemic signs: Colchicum (autumn crocus) or gloriosa superb (glory lily) ingestion can result in hypersalivation, vomiting, hemorrhagic diarrhea, severe abdominal pain, depression, weakness, collapse, and death. Signs may not occur for 24-72 hours after ingestion due to the slow absorption of colchicine. Do not confuse Colchicum (autumn crocus) with Crocus (spring crocus). If there is any doubt, treat as colchicum toxicity until accurate plant identification is confirmed.
Renal toxicity: Renal failure in cats from all parts of most lily species has been documented for several years. What began over 10 years ago as poisonings associated with Easter Lilies has spread to include just about every species of lily. This does not include the “peace lily” which is truthfully not a lily at all.
Cardiotoxic problems: Ingestion of all parts of the lily-of-the-valley has been associated with vomiting, hemorrhagic diarrhea, abdominal pain, bradycardia, heart block, asystole, seizures, coma, and death. The rhizome has the highest concentration of cardiotoxins and may result in the most severe signs.
And remember!! -------Bone and blood meal fertilizers, old moldy fertilizer, or carbamate/organophosphate products may be consumed along with plant parts. Even the water that the cut daffodils stood in can be harmful if enough is ingested.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
